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thread of colour

  • 1 vein

    vein [veɪn]
       a. (in body, insect wing) veine f ; (in leaf) nervure f
       b. (in stone, rock) veine f
    a vein of racism/scepticism un fond de racisme/scepticisme
       c. ( = style) veine f
    in a humorous/revolutionary vein dans une veine humoristique/révolutionnaire
    * * *
    [veɪn]
    1) ( blood vessel) veine f
    2) (on insect wing, leaf) nervure f
    3) ( thread of colour) ( in marble) veine f; ( in cheese) veinure f
    4) ( of ore) veine f
    5) ( theme) veine f

    English-French dictionary > vein

  • 2 vein

    vein n
    1 ( blood vessel) veine f ;
    2 (on insect wing, leaf) nervure f ;
    3 ( thread of colour) ( in marble) veine f ; ( in cheese) veinure f ;
    4 ( of ore) veine f ; to work a vein exploiter une veine ;
    5 ( theme) veine f ; to continue in a similar vein continuer dans la même veine ; a vein of nostalgia runs through his work on retrouve un élément de nostalgie à travers toute son œuvre ; in the same vein, she criticized the town council dans le même esprit, elle a critiqué le conseil municipal.

    Big English-French dictionary > vein

  • 3 Khasida

    Cotton muslin, hand embroidered by Mohammedan women in their leisure time. Figures are stamped on the cloth by small wood blocks in fugitive colour, and after being embroidered the colour is washed out. The cotton and silk thread are distributed by merchants and the finished work collected later. The embroidery thread is coloured silk and white cotton. Also known as Kasida.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Khasida

  • 4 Bandanna Dyeing

    This method of dyeing yarns is a hand weaver's industry in India. The dyer takes a small bundle of warp which has been dyed in the lightest colour required in the finished piece, and draws in pencil upon it some lines at measured distances according to the design to be produced. An assistant then ties the silk along the spaces marked, tightly round with cotton thread, through which the dye will not penetrate. It is then dyed with the next darker colour found upon the warp and the process is repeated until the darkest colour is reached. The weft is next treated in the same way in order that when it crosses the warp in the loom each of its colours exactly correspond with the same colour in the warp. These small bundles of warp are then arranged in the loom and the weaver takes the bundles of weft, using each in its own place throughout the design.(see Bandhana Silks)

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Bandanna Dyeing

  • 5 Knot Tying

    This method of dyeing yarns is a hand weaver's industry in India. The dyer takes a small bundle of warp which has been dyed in the lightest colour required in the finished piece, and draws in pencil upon it some lines at measured distances according to the design to be produced. An assistant then ties the silk along the spaces marked, tightly round with cotton thread, through which the dye will not penetrate. It is then dyed with the next darker colour found upon the warp and the process is repeated until the darkest colour is reached. The weft is next treated in the same way in order that when it crosses the warp in the loom each of its colours exactly correspond with the same colour in the warp. These small bundles of warp are then arranged in the loom and the weaver takes the bundles of weft, using each in its own place throughout the design.(see Bandhana Silks)

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Knot Tying

  • 6 Lungi

    (1) - A loin cloth generally in a check design from 2 yards to 91/2 yards long by 29-in. to 44-in. wide, woven from ordinary as well as mercerised cotton and sometimes from an admixture of cotton yarn with silk, rayon and mercerised cotton yarn. Worn by Mohammedans. Made on hand looms by native labour (2) - A favourite head-dress with a large part of the population in the Punjab as well as the North-west Frontier Province. It is woven in plain white, or in check and "Chini" designs mostly on primitive looms from mill_ made yarn of 20's to 40's counts. The first two varieties are used by almost all classes, especially among Hindus, while the latter called " chini " (woven with blue and white ends in alternate order) is precerred by the Mohammedans. The chief districts of production are Hoshiarpur, Jullundur, Ludhiana, Sialkot and Amritsar. Many varieties are made, each differing in some particular. The best known are as follows: - Lungi Amirana has gold thread borders. Lungi Battala, the body of the cloth is in red checks. Lungi Chaugarri has two-colour check designs. Lungi Chautani, the warp has four colour stripes, red, green, yellow and white. Lungi Chirwin has a white ground with single colour picks at intervals. Lungi Fakiri has a grey ground with single colour picks, yellow and white. Lungi Manjha has dark and light blue checks. Lungi Sated is plain white. Lungi Safed Kinaradar has a white ground and coloured border. Lungi Tirkandi has three colours in warp and weft. Lungi Tirtani has three colours in warp in three bars, red, green, yellow.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Lungi

  • 7 Diamond Yarn

    A compound yarn composed of a thick centre thread and two finer ones. The thick thread, about 4's, is soft-twisted with, say, a 2/36's with 8 turns per inch; this doubled thread is then twisted with another 2/36's, but about 4 turns per inch and reverse twist. The fine threads are usually different in colour from the thick one. Varying qualities are made by altering the counts and turns per inch

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Diamond Yarn

  • 8 Hosiery Yarns

    (See knitting). All yarns used for knitting are termed hosiery yarns in Leicester, but in America only yarns actually used for knitted footwear come under this term. These yarns are much softer than required for weaving. Miscellaneous Yarns - Goat wools, such as llama and alpaca are employed in spinning. yarns for the knitting trade. Vicuna and camel yarns are used to a limited extent. Ramie yarn is specially employed for knitting gas mantle fabrics. Soft spun flax yams have been used for making underwear fabric. Chenille and other manufactured threads are used to a small extent in warp knitting. Composite yarns, such as union yarns - spun from a mixture of wool and cotton fibres; cordon yarns - cotton and worsted singles, doubled together; wool and rayon or spun silk, cotton and rayon or spun silk are largely used to produce self or two-colour effects. Fancy yarns, such as slub yams, voiles, and curled and loop yarns are also employed. Hosiery Yarns (Cotton) include condenser, hosiery, condenser lisle thread, mercerised and sewing cottons. Condenser yarns are spun in coarse counts from low-grade cotton, Indian and American. They are carded, condensed and mule spun, and possess little twist. Hosiery cotton yarns vary considerably in counts and qualities, practically all varieties of Indian, American and Egyptian being used in varying proportions to obtain suitable mixture for quality and price. Cheaper yarns are carded and mule spun. American and Egyptian cotton yarns are combed mainly with the object of removing seed particles. High-class Egyptian and Sea Islands cotton yarns are super-combed. The chief features of a hosiery cotton yam should be: (1) Regularity; (2) cleanliness; (3) fullness. Regularity prevents the making of cloudy fabric, showing thick and thin places. Cleanliness is essential, as the seed particles clog the eyelet hole in the yam guides and cause breakages. Fullness is desirable to cover the loop interstices. Elasticity and pliability are quite as essential as tensile strength. Yams are usually soft spun and if two-fold soft doubled, average twists in two-fold being 2/10's 61/2T., 2/20's 81/2T., 2/30's 10T., 2/40's 16T., 2/80's 20T. Softer twist less 25 to 30 per cent of average (T= turns per inch). Lisle thread is a comparatively hard-twisted and doubly-gassed thread in which there are no projecting fibres. It is always of a two-fold character, and the doubling twist varies from 24 to 34 turns per inch in 2/60's. It is used largely in the manufacture of ladies' hose tops and feet and for lace hosiery. Mercerised yams are used largely in the fancy trade, a comparatively soft twist again being employed. Sewing cottons for seaming, linking and making-up are specially prepared in two to six cord open and reverse twist. Woollen and Worsted Yarns include lamb's wool, wheeling, skein yarns, gala yams (woollens), worsted, crossbreds, fingering, cashmere, dry spun botany (see under each name). Worsted and crossbred yarns of various qualities are used. These yams are spun softly with " hosiery twist." The drawing may be open, cone or French, and the spinning may take place on cap, ring or flyer frames. The chief essentials of hosiery yarn are softness of fibre, fullness, minimum of twist consistent with the requisite tensile strength, regularity, pliability and elasticity. Cashmere Yarns, as used in the knitted goods industry, are spun from short, loose and weak wools as well as from better qualities by French drawing and mule spinning. A small proportion of real cashmere is used for outer garments. In recent years nylon yarns have been largely employed.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Hosiery Yarns

  • 9 Knop Yarn

    A fancy yarn with lumps or thick places appearing at intervals. The knops can be either the same colour as the ground thread or in other colours. It consists of one or more foundation yarns usually two-ply and a coarse hard-twisted yarn, the latter forms the knops. The foundation yarn is delivered slowly at intermittent speed while the delivery of the coarse yarn is quicker and continuous resulting in the intermittent accumulation of this thread which forms the knops. A third thread may be doubled with the former group with twist in the opposite direction and about half the turns. Knop yarn is used to ornament numerous fabrics and is most often used as weft.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Knop Yarn

  • 10 gather

    ˈɡæðə гл.
    1) собирать(ся) (around) to gather a crowd ≈ собирать толпу They gathered around the speaker. ≈ Они столпились вокруг оратора. Syn: assemble, collect, congregate, convene, mass, muster, accumulate Ant: disband, scatter, separate
    2) скопляться, собираться Syn: collect, accumulate
    3) рвать( цветы) ;
    снимать (урожай) ;
    собирать (ягоды) Syn: collect
    4) подниматьземли, с пола)
    5) накоплять, приобретать to gather experience (strength) ≈ накоплять опыт( силы) to gather wayтрогаться( о судне) Syn: accumulate
    6) морщить (лоб) ;
    собирать в складки (платье)
    7) нарывать to gather headназревать( о нарыве)
    8) делать вывод, умозаключать( from) I could gather nothing from his statement. ≈ Я ничего не мог понять из его заявления. ∙ gather up то, что собрано, сбор, урожай сборки, складки - she made *s at the waist( of the dress) она присобрала /присборила/ платье в талии (автомобильное) схождение передних колес в плане собирать - to * a crowd собрать толпу - to * one's things собирать свои вещи - to * in a heap собирать в кучу собираться, скопляться - a crowd had *ed собралась толпа - * round, and I'll tell you a story усаживайтесь вокруг меня, и я расскажу вам историю - clouds *ed тучи сгущались - tears *ed in her eyes ее глаза наполнились слезами - suspicion was *ing in his mind у него крепли подозрения - the story *ed like a snowball эта история обрастала (новыми) подробностями как снежный ком (тж. * in) рвать (цветы), собирать (ягоды и т. п.) - the bee *s honey пчела собирает мед (тж. * in) снимать, собирать, убирать( урожай) - to * a rich crop of smth. собрать /снять/ хороший урожай чего-л. (тж. * up) поднимать, подбирать( с земли, с пола) - to * the pieces of a broken dish подобрать осколки разбитой тарелки кутаться( во что-л.) - he *ed his scarf around his neck он потуже замотал шею шарфом - he *ed his cloak around him он закутался в плащ - she *ed her skirts она подобрала юбку прижимать к себе - he *ed her in his arms он заключил ее в объятия - she *ed the crying child in her arms она прижала к груди плачущего ребенка накоплять, скапливать - to * wealth сколотить состояние - to * facts собирать факты накапливаться, скапливаться - a storm is *ing собираются тучи, будет буря, пахнет грозой постепенно накапливать, приобретать ( какие-л. качества, свойства) - to * strength, to * one's energies накоплять силы, набираться сил;
    собираться с силами - with *ing force с нарастающей силой - to * experience накапливать /приобретать/ опыт - to * speed набирать /увеличивать/ скорость, ускорять ход - to * way набирать скорость /ход/ (о судне) - to * volume усиливаться( о звуке, голосе и т. п.) - to * rust заржаветь - to * dust запылиться - her complexion *ed colour она порозовела /посвежела/ делать вывод, приходить к заключению - I * she's ill надо думать, что она заболела - I * he's abroad он, по-видимому, за границей - to * from facts заключать из фактов - I could * nothing from his statement я ничего не мог понять из его заявления - I didn't * much from the confused story he told me я мало чего понял из его сбивчивого рассказа - as you will have *ed как вам стало ясно - I * you don't like him у меня такое ощущение, что он вам не нравится - as far as I can * насколько я могу судить собирать в сборки, в складки ( платье и т. п.) - to * the dress at the waist собрать /присборить/ платье в талии - a *ed skirt юбка в сборку морщить (лоб) - to * one's brows сдвинуть брови;
    нахмуриться нарывать - to * head нарывать (о фурункуле) ;
    войти в силу, созреть, достичь высшей точки /апогея/ (полиграфия) подбирать листы > to * one's breath передохнуть, перевести дух > to * oneself (together) собраться с силами;
    взять себя в руки > to * one's wits собраться с мыслями;
    сообразить > to * heart мужаться;
    воспрянуть духом, подбодриться > to * (life's) roses срывать цветы удовольствия > to * into the wind (морское) подниматься к ветру > to * the ball (спортивное) завладеть мячом > to be *ed to one's fathers /people/ отправиться к праотцам gather делать вывод, умозаключать;
    I could gather nothing from his statement я ничего не мог понять из его заявления ~ делать вывод ~ морщить (лоб) ;
    собирать в складки (платье) ~ накоплять, приобретать;
    to gather experience (strength) накоплять опыт (силы) ;
    to gather way трогаться (о судне) ~ накоплять ~ нарывать;
    to gather head назревать (о нарыве) ~ поднимать (с земли, с пола) ~ приходить к заключению ~ рвать (цветы) ;
    снимать (урожай) ;
    собирать (ягоды) ~ pl сборки ~ собирать;
    to gather a crowd собирать толпу ~ собирать ~ собираться, скопляться ~ собрать ~ собирать;
    to gather a crowd собирать толпу ~ накоплять, приобретать;
    to gather experience (strength) накоплять опыт (силы) ;
    to gather way трогаться (о судне) ~ нарывать;
    to gather head назревать (о нарыве) ~ in debts взыскивать долги to ~ oneself up подтянуться;
    собраться с силами ~ up подбирать;
    to gather up the thread of a story подхватить нить рассказа ~ up суммировать ~ up съежиться, занять меньше места ~ up подбирать;
    to gather up the thread of a story подхватить нить рассказа ~ накоплять, приобретать;
    to gather experience (strength) накоплять опыт (силы) ;
    to gather way трогаться (о судне) gather делать вывод, умозаключать;
    I could gather nothing from his statement я ничего не мог понять из его заявления

    Большой англо-русский и русско-английский словарь > gather

  • 11 Coutil Jaspe

    A strong coutil of French make, 30-in. wide, and used for working garments. The cotton warp is grandrelle, one thread white and one thread colour; flax weft is used for strength.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Coutil Jaspe

  • 12 Russian Cords

    A combination of plain stripes with bold cords which often differ in colour from the ground. The cords form a very bold solid rib down the piece, and are made by working several thick cords together, with a douping thread crossing from side to side at every pick. This crossing thread is about three times the length of the ordinary warp.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Russian Cords

  • 13 Silk Yarns

    Silk yarns are composed of a number of silk filaments twisted together, usually 8 to 12 to form a thread. The filaments have a natural coating of gum which gives strength and elasticity, but reduces lustre. The gum must be boiled off if lustre is wanted, which may be done either in the yarn state or when woven in cloth. Silk yarns are divided into two classes, " thrown silk" and " spun silk," the first being yarns that are made by the processes of reeling and throwing, and the second consisting of yarns spun from waste silk. Thrown Silk, or Net Silk comprises organzine and tram yarns, organzine being made from the most perfect cocoons and used for warps. Tram is made from the inferior cocoons and used as weft. All silk contains a proportion of natural gum, and the amount of gum removed give rise to the following terms: - Boiled-off Silk - Yarn which has had all the gum removed, and has the highest sheen (see Boiled-off). Hard Silk - Yarn that has not undergone any boiling-off process. Ecru Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about 3 per cent to 5 per cent of the gum by light washing in lukewarm water. Souple Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about one-sixth of the gum. Bengal Silk - See Bengal Silk. Berlin Silk - A silk yarn made for fancy hand work. It is produced by doubling from 4 to 8 twisted singles grege by a right-hand twist; then again doubling three of these with a left-hand twist. The thread is very round, smooth, and hard, also known as cordon-net. Blond Silk - A special silk yarn made by doubling three grege threads left-hand twist, then doubling three of these together with right-hand twist. Brights - Silk which has been entirely de-gummed in the skein and then dyed. Bourette, Bourrette Yarn - A low grade of silk yarn made from the waste produced by schappe spinning. Canton Silk - See Canton Silk. Chiffon Twist - Single raw silk threads, 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffons, crepe-de-chines, etc. Crepe-de-Chine - Hard twist tram silk, about 40 to 70 turns per inch. Made from 3 to 5 raw silk ends. Usually woven as weft. Crepe Georgette - Hard twist raw silk usually made from two threads 13/15 deniers, 50 or more turns, both right and left twist, used for crepe georgettes as warp and weft. Crepe Twist - This is tram silk hard twisted, having from 30 to 100 turns per inch. Used for making fabrics of a crepe character both all silk and mixtures. Cordonnet Silk - See Berlin Silk; also under Cordonnet. Eri Silk - A raw silk obtained from the wild silkworm " Attacus ricini." Flock Silk - A general term used to indicate silk yarns made from the outer uneven parts of the cocoon. Floss Silk - Used principally for embroidery purposes. It is a thrown silk and made by doubling two thick raw singles with right-hand twist together with a left-hand twist. Galette Silk - A coarse silk yarn made from waste. Grenadine Silk - Organzine silk with a large number of turns per inch. Jaspe Silk - Silk warps printed in the hank. Ombre Silk - Skein dyed yarn in a gradation of shades, which run in sequence of depth of colour, varying from five up to forty shades. Schappe Silk - A spun silk yarn which is made from silk degummed by the maceration process used on the Continent (see Schappe Silk). Soie Ondee - See Soie Ondee. Silk Yarns - In addition to the foregoing yarns see under the following terms for further silk yarns: - Cable, Cevennes, Chappe, Chine, Clochepeid, Crocheting, Crue (see Ecru), Cuite Cusier, Cusirino, Degummed, Docken, Doup-pion. Ecru, Embroidery, Etschingo, Filature, Filature a 1'Europeune, Filet, Florette, Fringe, Goffered, Grege, Gum Hainin, Hard, Kahing, Knitting, Lousy, Marabout, Maybasch, Melange, Mele, Mi-cuit, Minchcw, Nett, Noil, Organzine, Ouvrees, Oval, Pearlina, Pel, Pelo, Poie, Pure dye Silk, Raw (see Grege), Re-reels, Retorse, Senegal, Sewing, Simonita, Soft Singles, Soie Ondee, Souple, Spun, Steeped, Strafilato, Stumba, Thrown, Tors San File, Tram, Tramette, Tsatlees, Tussah, Twist, Washed, Zaguri.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Silk Yarns

  • 14 Longyi

    A loin cloth native woven on hand looms in Burma, and worn by men and women. They are in many designs and qualities and all are about 34-in. to 36-in. wide and 72-in. long. Various names are given to the cloths according to the design. Such as Akwet, Bala, etc.; also see Lungi (1) ————————
    LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYI
    The shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Longyi

  • 15 Loongees

    LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYI
    The shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Loongees

  • 16 Loonghees

    LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYI
    The shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Loonghees

  • 17 Loongyes

    LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYI
    The shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Loongyes

  • 18 Loongies

    LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYI
    The shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Loongies

  • 19 Lungis

    LOONGEES, LOONGHEES, LOONGYES, LOONGIES, LUNGIS, LONGYI
    The shoulder or upper cloth worn by males in India. More strictly this is worn by Mohammedans and the Dhootie and Dhotee by Hindus. The cloth is of silk and cotton with gold thread embroidery at times. Made at Tatta, in Suidh, and other parts of India (see Lungi). The Indian cloth is generally 23-in. finished width and 41/2 yards long. The natives cut a length into two, and stitch the two pieces together side by side. The African style is 32-in. to 40-in. wide and of several lengths from 2 yard upwards. Made about 64 ends and 56 picks per inch, 32's T., 38's W., cotton. The borders have usually double the number of ends per inch, and in this cloth there will be 112 ends per inch in the border. All styles are checks, rather broad in design and of several colours, with a broad border at one selvedge. The border is all one colour and the yarns are crammed in the reed. The cloth is used for men's dress. The loongyes made for Mohammedan use are made from 29-in. to 44-in. wide and 2 yard to 91/2 yards long. Mercerised cotton, rayon and cotton and silk mixtures are used in the better qualities. The cheaper cloths are cut into two parts by the natives and stitched side by side. When borders are required they are made in colour. Loongyes are also used as a head-dress in the Punjab and other parts of India and native woven from fine yarns. A special " Chini " style is made from alternate blue and white yarn for Mohammedan use.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Lungis

  • 20 Warping

    General term for processes after winding concerned in preparing weaver's and knitter's warps. Methods of warping vary according to (1) the yarns employed (2) whether they are sized or not, and (3) at what state sizing takes place. There are at least seven methods of warp preparation, e.g., beam warping, direct warping, mill warping on vertical mills, section warping on horizontal mills and in cheeses on section blocks, Scotch dresser sizing, Scotch warp dressing, and Yorkshire warp dressing. Beam Warping is the system in general use for making grey cotton goods. The beam warper comprises a creel for the supply ends, which may be on double-flanged bobbins, cones or cheeses, and a beaming head which comprises mechanism for mounting and rotating a warper's beam and means for winding the yarn from the creel supply on to the beam under suitable tension. The number of ends and length of warp on a back or warper's beam is related to what is required in the weaver's beam. Assuming the weaver's beams were required to have 2928 ends, 24's warp, and 8 cuts of 96 yards each, the back beams for a set might have 2928: 6 = 488 ends, and 2 X 6 X 8 X 96 = 9216 yards. On the slasher sizing machine six back beams would be run together, thereby producing 12 weaver's beams each containing 2928 ends 768 yards long. Warp Beaming Speeds - With the old type of warp beaming machine taking supply from unrolling double-flanged bobbins, the warping speed would be about 70 yards per minute. In modern beam warpers taking supply overend from cones, the warping speed is up to 250 yards per minute. With beam barrels of 41/2-in. dia., and up to 500 yards per minute with barrels of 10-in. dia. Warp and Weft Knitted Fabrics - Warp knitted fabrics in which extra yarn is introduced in the form of weft threads which are laid in between the warp threads and their needles for the purpose of adding extra weight and for patterning purposes. Warp Loom Tapes - Narrow knitted fabrics usually less than one inch wide used for trimming garments. They are knitted on circular latch needle machines, but the tapes are flat. Direct Warping - A method used in making warps for towels, fustians, and other fabrics in which the total number of ends can be accommodated in one creel, say not more than 1,000 ends. The threads are run from the creel direct to the weaver's beam on a machine similar to that used in section beam warping. Mill Warping - There are two distinctly different methods of mill warping. On the vertical mill, which may be anything up to 20 yards in circumference, the number of ends in the complete warp is obtained by repeating the runs the required number of times, e.g., with 200 bobbins in the creel, 4 runs would give a warp of 800 ends. The length of the warp is determined by the number of revolutions made by the mill for each run. The horizontal mill is much used in Yorkshire for making woollen and worsted warps It is used to a small extent for cotton warps and is largely used for making silk and rayon warps. The mill or swift is usually about 5 yards in circumference. Its distinctive feature is the making of warps in sections which are wound on the mill in overlapping manner. The creel capacity varies from 250 to 600 ends, and with 500 ends in the creel a warp of 5,000 ends would require ten sections. Section Warping for Coloured Goods - This is a system of making coloured striped warps from hank-dyed and bleached yarns. The bobbins are creeled to pattern, one or more complete patterns to each section. Each section is the full length of the warp and is run on a small section block keywayed to fit a key on the shaft of the subsequent beaming machine where the sections are placed side by side and run on the weaver's beam. Scotch Dresser Sizing - There are two systems of warp preparation known as Scotch dressing. 1. Dresser sizing used for sizing warps for linen damasks, etc. Back beams are first made and placed in two beam creels, one on each side of the headstock. The threads from several back beams are collected in one sheet of yarn, sized by passage through a size-box, brushed by a revolving brush, dried by hot air, and passed vertically upwards where both sheets of warp threads are united and pass on to the weaver's beam in a single sheet. Scotch Warp Dressing - The other method of Scotch dressing is used in the preparation of coloured striped warps, usually from warp-dyed and bleached yarn. It consists in splitting off from ball warps previously dyed or bleached and sized, the number of ends of each colour required in the finished warp. Each group is then wound on separate flanged warpers' beams. These beams are placed in a creel and the ends drawn through a reed according to pattern, and wound finally on to the weavers' beams. Yorkshire Warp Dressing - This is a system used mostly in the preparation of coloured striped warps. It is also invaluable in preparing warps dyed and sized in warp form to prevent shadiness in the cloth. Four warps with the same number of ends in each are dyed the same colour, and in sleying, one end from each warp is put in each dent of the reed. Any tendency to shadiness arising from irregularity in dyeing is thereby effectively eliminated. In striped work the required ends are split off if necessary from a larger ball warp, sleyed to pattern in the reed, and then run under controlled tension on to the weaver's beam. The dresser uses a brush as long as the width of the warp to brush out entangled places where the threads have adhered together with size. Yorkshire dressing provides perfect warps with every thread in its proper place on the weaver's beam, no crossed or missing threads, and a minimum of knots.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Warping

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